Getting a new lawn to knit in cleanly has more to do with what you do before the sod arrives than anything else. Good sod over poor preparation gives you a patchwork that struggles, while average sod over excellent groundwork settles quickly and thrives. I’ve laid and overseen thousands of square yards, from tight Winter Haven side yards to sprawling lakefronts, and the same truth keeps showing up: preparation determines success.
This guide walks through a professional approach to sod installation prep, with practical detail for homeowners and property managers. I’ll call out regional realities, like the sandy subsoils of Central Florida and the behavior of St. Augustine varieties, and I’ll explain why small steps like running a hose for ten minutes can save you months of recovery. If you are planning to hire a company such as Travis Resmondo Sod installation or handling it yourself, the fundamentals below are the same.
Start with what you have
Every lawn inherits a history. Before you even think about delivery dates, walk the site and take notes. Look for the bones of irrigation, signs of compaction, drainage patterns, and the species you’re replacing.
If you are in a neighborhood with reclaimed water irrigation, pop the valve boxes and check for leaks or stuck rotors. Poor coverage is one of the main reasons new sod fails, yet this issue is easiest to fix before there is fresh turf to trample. Turn each zone on and watch for uniformity. You should see head-to-head coverage, not dry crescents and swampy patches.
Next, study sunlight over a couple of days. St. Augustine sod tolerates partial shade better than many turfgrasses, but heavy shade under oaks or north-facing courtyards will still thin. If more than half the day sits below four hours of direct light, adjust expectations, widen beds, or consider alternative groundcovers. Replacing grass in unsuitable microclimates leads to a cycle of decline and replacement that wastes money.
Run your hands across the soil. If you dig a simple hole with a hand spade and the top four inches feel powdery and pale, you are dealing with the common quartz sands of central Florida. These sands drain fast and hold little nutrient. If the shovel bounces at two inches and you uncover gray, smeary material, you may have a compacted layer or clay lens under a thin sand cap. Either way, these conditions inform how deep you should till and what amendments matter.
Finally, if the yard is being renovated due to chronic weeds, learn what species you’re up against. Torpedograss and bermudagrass can pierce through fresh sod if you do not beat them at the root level. A single pass with a string trimmer is a cosmetic fix, not a remedy.
Soil testing that actually helps
A basic soil test directs your amendment choices. Over the years I have seen homeowners spread hundreds of pounds of lime based on hearsay, only to push their pH up to levels where micronutrients lock out. With St. Augustine, which often performs best between pH 6.0 and 7.0, shooting blind can slow establishment.
You can use a mail-in lab kit from your local extension office or a reputable soil lab. I avoid $10 gadget probes that claim instant pH and nutrient readings; they are rarely accurate. Pull 10 to sod installation Travis Resmondo Sod Inc 15 cores across the lawn to a depth of four inches, mix them together in a clean bucket, and send a composite sample. If you have obvious zones with different soil types or use histories, sample them separately.
What you’re looking for: pH, phosphorus, potassium, and salinity. Central Florida sands often test low in organic matter and potassium. Phosphorus varies. If the lab reports soluble salts are high, that calls for flushing before sod arrives, not later, because salts can scorch fresh roots.
Clear the site thoroughly
Good sod wants soil contact. Anything that sits between the two will cause seams and dry edges. Clearing starts with aggressive weed management. Where I anticipate torpedograss or bermudagrass, I schedule two rounds of a non-selective systemic herbicide, two weeks apart. The first pass knocks back the foliage, but many stolons and rhizomes shrug it off. The second pass tags the regrowth when it is actively transporting sugars. If you are not using herbicides, you will need to remove a larger depth of material, ideally three to four inches, and vigilantly spot-weed for months after installation.
Remove debris down to the wrapper level: roots, rocks, old mulch, irrigation flag stakes, and construction trash. I once prepped a backyard where the builder had buried paint trays, which sat a finger’s depth below the soil and cooked the sod every dry afternoon. A few extra minutes raking and feeling for hard edges avoids surprises.
If there is an existing lawn, you have three choices: total kill, total strip, or a combination. For St. Augustine sod installation, I prefer stripping the old turf after it has browned from an herbicide pass, especially if the thatch layer is thick. A sod cutter set at 1 to 1.5 inches removes the mat cleanly. You expose mineral soil that accepts water, roots, and rollers. If you skip stripping and lay sod over a spongy thatch layer, you will trap air pockets and create a perched dry zone that fights the roots for weeks.
Address drainage and grading before you build a base
Water moves through lawns in predictable ways. If your property traps water near the house or around paver edges, fix it now. Sod will not change drainage; it will only hide it.
Central Florida lots usually aim for a positive slope away from structures at 2 percent, which is a quarter inch drop per foot. Run a tight string line from the foundation to your intended drain point, use a line level or laser, and check the fall. If you do not have equipment for moving soil, you can often correct minor birdbaths by shaving high spots and feathering low areas with a wheelbarrow and aluminum rake.
Pay special attention where concrete meets soil. Driveways and patios tend to sit higher than the adjoining yard. If the sod is laid proud of the slab edge, water collects along that seam. You want the finished sod surface to sit a half inch above hard edges, anticipating a little settlement.
If you need French drains or catch basins, trench and place them before you touch the finish grade. Sod installations around Winter Haven neighborhoods often include short runs of perforated pipe wrapped in fabric to address gutter downspouts. Keep the trench depth consistent, use clean gravel, and ensure a real outlet.
Build a rooting layer that makes sense for your turf
St. Augustine does not need a fluffy bed like a vegetable garden, but it does reward you when the top four to six inches are loose, uniform, and well amended. The key is matching amendments to your soil and climate.
For sandy soils, I prioritize compost for organic matter, not topsoil alone. Compost improves water holding, supports microbial life, and helps nutrients hang around long enough for roots to find them. Aim for one to two cubic yards of compost per 1,000 square feet, tilled in to a depth of four inches. If your soil test shows potassium is low, incorporate a starter fertilizer that supplies potassium sulfate, not just phosphorus. If your pH is below 5.5, use dolomitic lime at sod installation the lab-recommended rate, mixed into the top few inches instead of spread on top.
Avoid creating a soil sandwich. I have seen homeowners bring in black topsoil and spread it in a one to two inch layer over native sand, then lay sod. It looks rich for a month, then dries differently than the subsoil and separates under foot traffic. If you import material, blend it with the native layer through shallow tilling so water and roots move freely across the interface.
On compacted or clayey patches, tilling alone may not break the pan. Use a broadfork or mechanical aerator to punch through before you mix amendments. If heavy tilling isn’t possible, you can still gain a lot by thorough core aeration and backfilling with sand and compost. The goal is consistent porosity.
Set the finish grade with the sod in mind
Once you’ve mixed amendments and loosened the soil, rake to a smooth, even plane. Remove clods larger than a walnut. Fill small divots but avoid creating humps. Think about mower movement when you set the grade. Mowers telegraph bumps and dips relentlessly, and a rider bouncing across ridges scalps even hardy St. Augustine varieties.
I have a habit that annoys clients until they see the result: I roll the prepared soil lightly with a water-filled roller, then rake again. The first roll reveals soft spots that your feet won’t find. The second raking removes wheel lines and creates a subtle texture that grips the underside of sod.
Before you finish, set your sprinkler flags. Place one at every head and valve box. Run each zone once more to confirm alignment. Nothing ruins a clean install like finding a broken riser under 500 square feet of fresh turf.
Time the delivery and stage the site
Fresh sod has a short shelf life, especially in summer. St. Augustine stacked on a pallet can heat up to damaging temperatures within 24 to 36 hours. Schedule delivery for the morning you intend to install, not the day before. If delays happen, break the pallets apart in the shade to release heat. Mist the edges lightly to keep them pliable, but do not soak stacks or you may invite rot.
Clear the driveway or street edge where the forklift can stage pallets near the work area, especially on narrow Winter Haven lots. The less distance you carry or wheel sod, the better the seams look and the fewer torn corners you create. If you are hiring a firm like Travis Resmondo Sod installation, they will coordinate staging with you, but it helps to plan parking and access.
Fine grading and pre-wetting
Right before laying the first piece, water the prepared soil lightly. Aim for moist, not muddy. For sandy soils, this pre-wetting prevents the ground from pulling moisture out of the sod so aggressively that the edges curl. For heavier soils, it helps you see and correct any remaining lows when the water pools.
Walk the area and look for anything sharp or out of place: a forgotten stake, a root stub, a piece of wire. This is your last clean pass before the sod hides everything. Keep a flat shovel handy for shaving high ridges and a level-headed rake for feathering transitions.
Laying the sod with purpose
There is a rhythm to good sod installation. Start along the straightest and most visible edge, often a driveway or sidewalk. Place the first row carefully, pulling each piece snug without stretching it. Keep seams tight but avoid overlapping edges. Stagger joints like brickwork to avoid straight lines that draw the eye. Where two pieces meet at a corner, trim to fit so there is no double thickness.
Large rolls lay faster, but in tight residential lawns you will likely use standard slabs. For curves around landscape beds, cut with a sharp sod knife, not a dull shovel. Clean cuts knit better. Avoid small slivers at edges; they dry out first. If a piece crumbles or arrives thin, set it aside for filling small gaps rather than placing it in the field.
As you move, place short boards to kneel on, and avoid repeated foot traffic in one line. Fresh sod marks easily. Every few rows, step back and sight across the surface. Minor course corrections made early preserve that smooth, finished look. Do not trap air pockets. If a slab bridges a shallow hollow, lift it, add a pinch of soil, and reset.
Once the field is down, roll it. A lawn roller pressed half full of water is about right for residential sod. Roll in two directions, perpendicular to each other. Rolling presses the roots into contact with the soil and irons out footprints. You will hear a satisfying squish where you had air; that is what you want.
Watering that establishes, not drowns
The first irrigation sets the tone. Soak the new sod and the top inch of soil beneath it immediately after rolling. For most residential systems, that means running each zone long enough to deliver 0.5 to 0.75 inches. If you are in hot weather, the sod should be wet through, not just damp at the surface. Lift a corner to check.
Over the first 10 to 14 days, prioritize frequent, light watering that keeps the sod and the rooting zone moist. In the Winter Haven heat, that may mean two to four short cycles per day, 8 to 12 minutes each on spray zones, adjusted for head type and wind. The goal is not to pool water on the slab edges, which invites fungus, but to prevent the sod from desiccating before it knits.
After you feel resistance when you tug up at a corner, start to stretch intervals and lengthen run times. Water deeper, less often. By week three to four, you should be close to a normal schedule for your turf type and season. Pay attention to shade versus sun. Shaded sections often need half as much water during establishment. Overwatering shaded St. Augustine invites gray leaf spot and patch diseases.
If your water source is reclaimed and higher in salts, occasionally supplement with potable water if the soil test hinted at salinity issues. In any case, avoid watering at night during hot, humid weeks. Early morning is better.
First feed and what to avoid
Many people want to fertilize immediately. Resist the urge to hammer the lawn with nitrogen in the first week. Your soil test should guide your first product. If you did not amend potassium during prep, a light application of a starter with a balanced NK ratio in weeks two to three can help root growth. Keep nitrogen under 0.5 pounds per 1,000 square feet at this stage.
Certain herbicides and high-salt fertilizers can burn new sod, especially St. Augustine. Hold off on pre-emergent herbicides until you see clear rooting and active growth, usually after 30 to 45 days. Post-emergent herbicide labels have strict travis remondo sod installation intervals after sodding; read them. When in doubt, ask your installer or extension office.
Mowing that teaches the lawn to thicken
The first cut usually comes when the sod has rooted and reached a mower’s worth of growth, often two to three weeks after installation in warm weather, longer in cool shoulder seasons. Set the deck high for St. Augustine, in the 3.5 to 4 inch range, and take only the top third of the blades. If the lawn feels spongy underfoot, wait. Mowing too soon can pull seams apart.
Use a sharp blade. Dull blades tear leaf tips and leave a gray cast that looks like drought stress. Walk-behind mowers put less lateral stress on fresh sod than heavy riders. Turn gently and avoid using the same paths repeatedly during the first few cuts.
Regular mowing trains St. Augustine to fill laterally. Once the lawn is rooted, find a rhythm based on growth rate rather than calendar days. In peak season, that may be every 5 to 7 days. Scalping sets the lawn back and wakes up weeds hiding under the canopy.
Edges, seams, and other small details that make a big difference
Edges lose moisture faster than the field. In the first two weeks, hand-water along driveways, walkways, and bed borders where sprinklers may not throw enough. If you see seams opening, press them closed by foot after watering, or add a pinch of screened soil and water it in. Avoid filling gaps with loose mulch or compost chunks that will decay and sink.
Watch for hot spots over utility lines and septic tank lids. These areas often dry faster, and the sod can turn straw-colored in a day. Adjust irrigation micro-zones if possible, or hand-water those spots.
If you see mushrooms or algae after a week of heavy watering, it tells you the soil is staying wet. Dial back frequency, increase run times slightly, and water closer to dawn. New sod needs moisture, not soggy conditions.
Regional notes for Winter Haven and Central Florida
Sod installation in Winter Haven carries quirks that differ from Orlando to the north or coastal areas to the east. Summer thunderstorms soak and then bake surfaces within hours. That swing favors fungal pathogens when sod is stressed. Inspect under the canopy every other day during establishment for lesions or off smells. Catching disease early means adjusting water and, if needed, applying a targeted fungicide that is safe for new sod. Many installers around Polk County will include a preventative spray for St. Augustine in peak summer because the cost of losing a pallet or two far outweighs a measured preventive.
Wildlife and pests also behave differently in this region. Sod webworms and armyworms can appear almost overnight during late summer. If you see chewed leaf edges or moths lifting as you walk at dusk, call your installer or lawn pro. New sod cannot afford significant defoliation while it is trying to root. Grubs can be an issue, but I do not treat blindly. Lift a square foot and look for counts; fewer than five grubs per square foot often do not warrant action. Above that, plan a treatment window compatible with new sod.
Lastly, water restrictions vary by municipality. Before you install, check what the current allowances are. In some seasons, new landscaping permits a 30-day exception for establishment watering. Keep that paperwork handy in case a neighbor calls in a report. The rules exist to conserve water, but exceptions acknowledge that a missed week can ruin the investment. If you’re working with a company used to Sod installation Winter Haven, they will guide you through the rules.
Choosing your St. Augustine and what to expect
If your project is a St Augustine sod i9nstallation, ask about cultivar. Floratam remains common, with good vigor in full sun, but it struggles in shade and dislikes prolonged cold snaps. Palmetto, Seville, and CitraBlue handle shade better and offer finer textures and deeper color. They also differ in thatch tendencies and disease profiles. There is no perfect choice. Match the grass to your light conditions, aesthetics, and maintenance habits.
When you inspect pallets on delivery, look for uniform thickness, firm but moist soil backs, and fresh color. Tug on the pieces. Healthy sod holds together. If you see slimy lines or smell sour stacks, ask the driver to note it. Reputable suppliers will make it right quickly. Companies with deep local roots, like Travis Resmondo Sod installation teams, tend to have strong supplier relationships that protect you from receiving tired product.
Common mistakes to avoid
Here are five pitfalls I see more than any others, with quick fixes you can apply even if the sod is already down.
- Laying on dry, hot soil: Pre-wet lightly before you start, and keep a hose nearby to cool the base in extreme heat. Starving or drowning the first week: Keep moisture in the top inch with short cycles, then adjust. Lift corners to check, do not guess. Ignoring grade around hardscapes: Set sod height to sit just above edges, not below or far above. Skipping the roller: Rolling marries sod to soil. If you don’t own one, you can rent one cheaply for the day. Mowing too soon or too low: Wait until there is firm rooting, then cut high with a sharp blade.
When to DIY and when to call a pro
Installing sod is hard physical work, and the margin for error is narrow during hot stretches. If your project is a simple rectangle with good access and a reliable irrigation system, a careful homeowner can produce a great result. If you have large slopes, drainage issues, or serious weed infestations, hiring a professional crew saves time and avoids do-overs. An experienced team will prep at the right depth, bring the correct amendments, and coordinate logistics so pallets are on the ground for hours, not days.
In Winter Haven, pro crews often complete a 5,000 square foot install in a single day, including stripping, grading, and laying. They show up with skid steers, sod cutters, rollers, and a plan. You pay for that efficiency and know-how, but you also reduce the risk of shorting steps when the sun is beating down and you have two pallets left to place. If you do hire out, ask for details about the prep process, not just the sod brand. A company that talks about soil contact, roller passes, and irrigation checks is the one you want.
A simple timeline that works
If you like a clean framework to follow, this is the sequence I use on most residential projects, adjusted to site conditions.
- Week 0: Soil test and irrigation audit. Map zones, mark utilities, and plan drainage corrections. Week 1: Weed control pass and debris removal. Schedule second herbicide if needed. Week 2: Strip existing turf, rough grade, and install drainage if required. Incorporate compost and any recommended amendments. Fine grade and roll. Confirm irrigation coverage. Set delivery date. Install day: Pre-wet soil, stage pallets, lay starting at the straightest edge, stagger seams, roll in two directions. Water thoroughly. Days 1 to 14: Water frequently in short cycles. Watch edges, lift corners to check moisture, and hand-water hot spots. Hold fertilization. Days 15 to 30: Transition to deeper, less frequent watering. First light feeding if needed. First mow high with sharp blades once rooting is firm.
Follow this cadence and the sod has the best chance to root quickly, resist stress, and look like it has always been there by the time you hit the 30 to 45 day mark.
The payoff for careful preparation
A lawn laid over a well prepared base behaves differently. It drinks evenly, grows evenly, and recovers from foot traffic with less fuss. You spend less time chasing patchy color, fungal rings, and chronic dry spots. The difference is visible from the street and tangible underfoot.
Whether you handle the work yourself or bring in a crew, insist on the steps that matter most: honest assessment, clean removal, smart amendments, true grade, tight seams, and disciplined watering. If your property is in Polk County and you’re weighing options, look for teams experienced with Sod installation Winter Haven conditions so you benefit from local knowledge about weather, water, and soil. If you prefer to call in a provider such as Travis Resmondo Sod installation for the entire process, ask them to walk you through their prep sequence and how they tailor it for St. Augustine varieties.
Good sod deserves a good start. Put your commercial sod installation energy into preparation, and your lawn will pay you back every time you step on it.
Travis Resmondo Sod inc
Address: 28995 US-27, Dundee, FL 33838
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FAQ About Sod Installation
What should you put down before sod?
Before laying sod, you should prepare the soil by removing existing grass and weeds, tilling the soil to a depth of 4-6 inches, adding a layer of quality topsoil or compost to improve soil structure, leveling and grading the area for proper drainage, and applying a starter fertilizer to help establish strong root growth.
What is the best month to lay sod?
The best months to lay sod are during the cooler growing seasons of early fall (September-October) or spring (March-May), when temperatures are moderate and rainfall is more consistent. In Lakeland, Florida, fall and early spring are ideal because the milder weather reduces stress on new sod and promotes better root establishment before the intense summer heat arrives.
Can I just lay sod on dirt?
While you can technically lay sod directly on dirt, it's not recommended for best results. The existing dirt should be properly prepared by tilling, adding amendments like compost or topsoil to improve quality, leveling the surface, and ensuring good drainage. Simply placing sod on unprepared dirt often leads to poor root development, uneven growth, and increased risk of failure.
Is October too late for sod?
October is not too late for sod installation in most regions, and it's actually one of the best months to lay sod. In Lakeland, Florida, October offers ideal conditions with cooler temperatures and the approach of the milder winter season, giving the sod plenty of time to establish roots before any temperature extremes. The reduced heat stress and typically adequate moisture make October an excellent choice for sod installation.
Is laying sod difficult for beginners?
Laying sod is moderately challenging for beginners but definitely achievable with proper preparation and attention to detail. The most difficult aspects are the physical labor involved in site preparation, ensuring proper soil grading and leveling, working quickly since sod is perishable and should be installed within 24 hours of delivery, and maintaining the correct watering schedule after installation. However, with good planning, the right tools, and following best practices, most DIY homeowners can successfully install sod on their own.
Is 2 inches of topsoil enough to grow grass?
Two inches of topsoil is the minimum depth for growing grass, but it may not be sufficient for optimal, long-term lawn health. For better results, 4-6 inches of quality topsoil is recommended, as this provides adequate depth for strong root development, better moisture retention, and improved nutrient availability. If you're working with only 2 inches, the grass can grow but may struggle during drought conditions and require more frequent watering and fertilization.